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ORIGIN – In the 19th century, the gasoline portion of the refining process, was first considered to be a ‘waste’ product of extracting the purified crude oil. Later on, it was discovered that it could be $old as fuel, instead of just dumping it back in the hole as had been the tradition.

Never buy a car you haven’t driven. It is easier to inspect a car on level ground. That way you can tell if the car sits level. If the car you are inspecting is parked on uneven ground try to park it somewhere more level after you take it for a test drive.

Turbo – A turbo (which is in effect a pump) propels air into an engine with great speed – this allows more fuel to also be pumped and mixed, delivering an intense power burst. This is why turbo powered engines also use more fuel – it facilitates faster, more rapid pumping of air and fuel into the engine.

Using the MIG welder, tack weld the exhaust tubing that is between the two cut sections of the exhaust. The tack weld is a small and fast kind of welding that secures two pieces together. This however is temporary. You have to make sure that the alignment is straight and that there are no gaps between the tubing before a permanent welding could be done.

Using an EBC is the safest way to raise boost, it will prevent spiking and over-boosting. But it really comes down to your budget. If you can afford an EBC, get one. If you can’t, go with a MBC. And always keep an eye on that boost gauge. And whatever you are using to control boost, remember to not get carried away, I don’t recommend going regularly over 18psi.

Check the tail pipe. With the engine running, go to the tail pipe and stand there and smell it. Yes I did say that. If it burns in your eyes and throat, it has a vacuum leak in the motor, often a simple fix but time consuming trying to find it. It will not pass smog with this problem. If the exhaust smells of gasoline and the tail pipe looks black, the engine is running too rich and will need an adjustment. It may or may not pass smog. Likely you will need to replace the spark plugs as well. If it smells like any other car with a catalytic converter recyclers, it is probably fine.

Test the acceleration. Try to accelerate quickly from a stop, a couple hundred feet is more than enough distance for this test. It should accelerate nicely, if not, you are looking at some adjustments or repairs. If it sputters and dies – this is not a good sign. It could be simple, it could be a big problem. Have a mechanic look at it before you buy if you just gotta have THIS car.

If you are faced with this kind of situation, you should try to check if it is attached very thinly, then you should try to break if off. Keep in mind that before you do touch your car’s exhaust pipe, make sure that it is cool enough to touch or you might just get burnt in the process. On the other hand, if you cannot break it off, look around for a wire coat hanger or a mechanic’s wire. Wrap this around one end of the hanging pipe and then fasten the other end to the underside of your car. This should keep it in place right up until you bring your car to the muffler shop.